The 2 outlets in the kitchen to the left side of the sink are on a 20 Amp circuit breaker.
The outlet closest to the sink is the last in the circuit, with a single cable including a ground wire. It appears to be wired correctly, but the tester shows the ground is not good. This one has a blue plastic box.
The other outlet's ground was testing as good.
It has 3 cables in it, and a metal box.
1 of the cables is plastic(?)-clad and has a #12 ground wire... but the ground wire was cut off and not connected to anything. This is the cable going to the other outlet, and this explains why the ground on the other outlet was bad. The black and white wires from this cable are connected into the holes in the back of the outlet.
white - left side
black - right side
The other 2 cables appear to be older, with a different cladding material. These are connected to the side-screws.
One of them has black and white wires, size #14. This one presumably is connected to the light and fan over the stove.
The other has black and white wires, size #12. This one presumably feeds the outlet. This one also has a thinner copper ground wire connected to the receptacle's ground screw.
I think I just need to connect the thin ground wire, the plastic-clad cable's ground wire, and a jumper wire together with a wire-nut, and hook the jumper to the receptacle's ground screw. I don't like that the one wire will be thinner than the others.
How do you twist 2 #12 wires together? Dang hard. And my wire-nuts aren't large enough.
Need to go to the store, I guess. And then it will still be difficult. Eep.
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http://www.ehow.com/how_117546_replace-receptacle.html
Receptacles have a single ground screw (why don't they have two separate screws, like for the other wires, to make the connections easier?), so the ground wires need to be connected to a jumper with a wire-nut.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Electrical-Wiring-Home-1734/20-amp-GFCI-outlets.htm
You can have a 20 Amp receptacle on a 15 Amp breaker.
You can also have a 15 Amp receptacle (with #12 wire) on a 20 Amp breaker, but only if there is more than one receptacle on the circuit.
You can't use #14 wire on a 20 Amp circuit, because then the overcurrent protection from the breaker exceeds the max rating of the wire (needs to be #12 wire).
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?p=1198418
Should be ok to have a T-type connection at an outlet.
http://www.rusticgirls.com/electrical/wires-wiring-3.html
Types of electrical cables.
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.engineering.electrical/browse_thread/thread/6f0b210aa2e98822/c0d08f89cef7579f%23c0d08f89cef7579f
There are wire-nuts big enough for at least 3 #12 wires.
The outlet closest to the sink is the last in the circuit, with a single cable including a ground wire. It appears to be wired correctly, but the tester shows the ground is not good. This one has a blue plastic box.
The other outlet's ground was testing as good.
It has 3 cables in it, and a metal box.
1 of the cables is plastic(?)-clad and has a #12 ground wire... but the ground wire was cut off and not connected to anything. This is the cable going to the other outlet, and this explains why the ground on the other outlet was bad. The black and white wires from this cable are connected into the holes in the back of the outlet.
white - left side
black - right side
The other 2 cables appear to be older, with a different cladding material. These are connected to the side-screws.
One of them has black and white wires, size #14. This one presumably is connected to the light and fan over the stove.
The other has black and white wires, size #12. This one presumably feeds the outlet. This one also has a thinner copper ground wire connected to the receptacle's ground screw.
I think I just need to connect the thin ground wire, the plastic-clad cable's ground wire, and a jumper wire together with a wire-nut, and hook the jumper to the receptacle's ground screw. I don't like that the one wire will be thinner than the others.
How do you twist 2 #12 wires together? Dang hard. And my wire-nuts aren't large enough.
Need to go to the store, I guess. And then it will still be difficult. Eep.
---
http://www.ehow.com/how_117546_replace-receptacle.html
Receptacles have a single ground screw (why don't they have two separate screws, like for the other wires, to make the connections easier?), so the ground wires need to be connected to a jumper with a wire-nut.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Electrical-Wiring-Home-1734/20-amp-GFCI-outlets.htm
You can have a 20 Amp receptacle on a 15 Amp breaker.
You can also have a 15 Amp receptacle (with #12 wire) on a 20 Amp breaker, but only if there is more than one receptacle on the circuit.
You can't use #14 wire on a 20 Amp circuit, because then the overcurrent protection from the breaker exceeds the max rating of the wire (needs to be #12 wire).
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?p=1198418
Should be ok to have a T-type connection at an outlet.
http://www.rusticgirls.com/electrical/wires-wiring-3.html
Types of electrical cables.
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.engineering.electrical/browse_thread/thread/6f0b210aa2e98822/c0d08f89cef7579f%23c0d08f89cef7579f
There are wire-nuts big enough for at least 3 #12 wires.