a cook a bake a beep

Wednesday, December 24th, 2025 03:28 am
darkoshi: (Default)
I made a fire-roasted tomato stew for Christmas eve tomorrow. There will be vegan Spaetzle (German pasta) and a few other things to go with it.

I also made an upside-down pumpkin pie cake. When I pressed the oven's Start button to start the preheat cycle, the oven proclaimed Beep-beep-beep! It kept beep-beep-beeping rather than turning on, no matter what I tried. The oven can't be turned on except by that Start button.

Well, I could bake the cake at my mom's house tomorrow. But Mistral - Le Chat suggested unplugging the oven for 10 minutes. So I did that and for good (or bad) measure, blew some hot air at the control panel with a hair dryer, and pushed the buttons some more. After plugging it back in, the Start button worked right again. Yay. So cake got baked.
darkoshi: (Default)
Note to self:
Do not wash slippers in the washer. It breaks the rubber soles, even on the Bulky Items cycle.

It's probably okay to wash them by hand, and then to get water out, put them in the washer using only the Drain & Spin cycle. I haven't tried that.
darkoshi: (Default)
Last night I cooked yellow squash. I finished late, and it was still warm outside so I couldn't open the windows to air out the cooking smells from the house.

Today I opened all the windows to air it out. With the A/C off, the temperature got up to 88 inside, but felt nice to me with the fans on. So I left the windows open all day.

As the windows were open, I washed a load of items with mildew and other stains along with 2 bleach tablets in the washer. (My use of chlorine bleach is seldom enough that liquid bleach usually degrades before I can use the bottle up. Tablets don't have that problem.) The windows being open prevents the bleach smell from bothering me.

As the windows were open, I also baked some things from the freezer in the oven. It seemed a good idea as the heat and baking smells could dissipate out through the windows, without making the A/C use more energy (since it wasn't on).

Coincidentally, part of the reason I wanted to use up some of the things in the freezer is because there's always the slight worry that if the power goes out for a long time, the food will melt and go bad. The strong storm we had on June 25 only made my power flicker a few times (although it ripped some siding off my soffits), but my mom's power was out for 11 hours. Before that, my power was out for 2 hours from a storm on June 14.

This evening, several hours after the baking, my refrigerator started beeping and showing the Too-High-Temperature warning icon. Uh-oh. I hadn't had the door open more than usual, and I hadn't put any hot food inside it. I wasn't sure if it could be due to the house temperature being higher than usual. This isn't the first time I've had the windows open in warm weather, but it's the first time the refrigerator had a problem with it. I closed the windows and turned the A/C back on. I took the grate off the bottom of the fridge and checked the coils. I vacuumed some dust out, but they didn't look too bad. I took the back panel off the fridge to check back there. The fan was still running. The compressor was very hot. The finger I touched it with didn't get burned, but it was hot enough to make me jerk my finger back.

The fridge kept giving the high temp warning for over an hour, but then it finally stopped. That's a relief.

I wonder if that was a sign of the refrigerator being too old to handle a warm house, or if new refrigerators would have the same problem. The fridge is 41 years old. 88 degrees inside really doesn't seem that high to me. I suspect that in the old days, people got refrigerators before they got air conditioners.
darkoshi: (Default)
I have a memory from the 1980s of a certain semi-public restroom (like in restaurants, but this was a building with a big meeting room where one of my aunt's clubs had meetings and events) in Germany. The building itself was probably built in the preceding decades.

The soap dispenser was metal with a small crank-handle that you would turn. Inside must have been a block of bar soap. Turning the crank would grate off flakes of soap into your other waiting hand. I think the soap was pink.

The hand towel was a long length of fabric which presumably was rolled up at the top and bottom inside the device it was dispensed from. You would only see a section of the fabric at a time. To get a fresh part of the towel you would either pull on the fabric, or perhaps turn a knob on the side; I don't recall exactly. This would cause the fabric to unroll from the top and get rolled up into the bottom of the unit.

The towel was mostly white like the one in this photo, but I think it had colored stripes on both vertical edges instead of in the center.

This video shows the inside of a similar device:
Continuous Cloth Roll Towel Machine

The soap device was like this one:
GRUNELLA® -Seifenmühle
Soap for cranking

That wasn't the only restroom I encountered those devices in; they were common back then in many places. Similar devices can still be bought nowadays, and for your own bathroom too, from what I see.
darkoshi: (Default)
With my 3-day weekend, I've been cleaning out more of the stuff my niece left behind when she moved out. One item is an Easy Bake Oven. At first, I intended to take it to Goodwill, even though it seemed to be missing the pan.

When I plugged it in and turned it on to make sure it worked, the white light in front came on but it didn't seem to be doing anything else. Then I started smelling a nasty smell, like cigar smoke. Not wanting to impose such a nasty smell on anyone who might innocently buy it at Goodwill, I decided to throw it away.

First I thought of wrapping it in an old hoodie which I was getting rid of too. To hide it, I guess, and buffer the outside of it. I would put it like that in another bag, in my trash bin. But I changed my mind, not wanting it to damage the garbage truck (if that is even possible).

Per my county's Solid Waste & Recycling Guidelines, you can schedule a bulk item pickup for large appliances. But not for small appliances. Apparently you have to take the small ones to the landfill yourself. That doesn't seem fair! They'll take something big but not something smaller?

I considered disassembling the unit, and found a video showing how to do it. The oven has a thick plastic shell. The seam is near one side, not in the middle. So taking it apart wouldn't make it much smaller. But in pieces, it would no longer be an appliance; it would be two bulky pieces of plastic. That should probably be ok to put in my bin. I could keep the metal interior parts for metal recycling.

But taking it apart requires an unusually long #10 star bit driver, which I don't have. I suppose I could order one, but gee whiz.

To top things off, my neighbor put out a bunch of junk this weekend. A passer-by with a truck already took away the exercise bike. There's still a coffee table and side table (in fairly bad condition though they could be fixed up), and a shopping cart (that reminded me how after I moved here, it was common to find abandoned shopping carts on the side of the road. I'm glad that stopped happening) and some other things. Unless my neighbor scheduled a special pickup for that stuff, or someone else driving by decides they want that stuff, I don't think it will be picked up. I was tempted to put out the Easy Bake oven by his things. But I already cut the electric cord off it, and I'm pretty sure it wouldn't get taken.

I considered putting the oven on top of my trash bin by the street. That way the people on the garbage truck could decide whether it was ok for them to take or not. But now it's 3am and I don't want to go out there in the dark again.

I've never been to the landfill, so I don't know how dropping something off there works. I used to think I could do that someday if I ever really needed to. But then one time, Qiao and I drove by one of the landfills on the way out of town. The smell was horrible. I could barely stand just driving down that road. So now I never want to drive that way again, and I certainly don't want to drive in to the landfill site. I don't think I could stand it. But actually, I'm not even sure that's the location for dropping off appliances and such. Maybe that place is elsewhere and doesn't smell as bad.

Two years ago (on Valentine's Day, even!) I had hired some people to haul away a bunch of stuff to the dump. I might need to do that again someday, if I have enough to make it worthwhile.
darkoshi: (Default)
My oven's touchpad isn't working right. The Temperature Up button makes the temperature go down. The Down button brings up Auto Clean. So I am stuck at a maximum temperature of 350, unless I want to Broil something.

It had a similar problem in 2015. Back then on the original Whirlpool unit, the Temperature Down button failed first. I was able to purchase and install a 3rd-party replacement touchpad to fix it, for $200. Now, it looks like a replacement may no longer be available. I've emailed the company I bought it from last time to find out for sure.

Looking up the problem, there are many videos indicating that oven touchpad buttons failing is a common problem with all brands. In most examples, the buttons don't work at all rather than doing the wrong thing. The videos show how to clean the ribbon cable contacts to fix the problem. One guy said that fixes the problem 70% of the time. I didn't try that back in 2015, but did yesterday. Today I tried it again, just to make sure I got those contacts very clean. It didn't fix my problem.

Maybe one of the resistors in the touchpad is shorted. I was looking at the photo I'd made of its wiring prior to installing it. Groups of buttons are wired together along the same metal connector thingy, with what looks like a flat resistor between each one. The control unit probably determines which button was pressed based on the voltage between the various connectors. If the resistor right after the Auto Clean button is shorted, that could result in my problem. Unfortunately the Temp Up button is the last in the path, so there's no other button I can press to make the temperature go up. It's strange that basically the same buttons failed both times, on different brands of touchpads.

Oh well. Being able to bake only at 350 degrees is better than not baking at all. I want to still bake something tonight.

If these touchpads failing is such a common problem, they ought to make more ovens with manual knob controls like in the old days.

Earlier this year, my microwave oven's touchpad was also acting up. Some of the buttons didn't respond, or only when pressed in a specific way. I tried one suggested fix (blow dryer) which didn't help. Later on, the problem went away on its own. Probably seasonal/humidity related.

2:00

Tuesday, February 7th, 2023 02:01 am
darkoshi: (Default)
Setting the microwave to run for 2 minutes at exactly 2am is a tad confusing. Oh I entered the numbers already? Oh I guess not.
darkoshi: (Default)
Last year I found out unfrosted poptarts are vegan. (The frosted ones contain gelatin.) That made me nostalgic, so I bought a box each of unfrosted cinnamon and strawberry poptarts. They still taste like I remember from childhood. Sugary-sweet morning memories; memories that go along with Saturday morning cartoons on the TV. Flintstones, He-man, Thundercats Ho!

Did you know even a single unfrosted poptart contains 12 grams of sugar, which per the nutrition panel is 24% of the recommended daily intake? (Contrary to what I'd expect, the frosted ones purportedly don't have much more sugar than the unfrosted ones.) That is one reason I haven't eaten up these 2 boxes of tarts yet; I only take them out once in a big while as a treat.

I heat mine in the toaster, but the microwave heating instructions on the box surprise me:
"Heat 3 seconds at a time until warm enough."

Does Kellogg's truly expect anyone to start and stop their microwave every *3* seconds to check on the warmth of their tarts? I am guessing those instructions are to avoid any lawsuits due to accidental over-heating of the tarts, since some microwaves heat a lot faster than others. But I wonder if three seconds may not even be long enough for a microwave to start emitting its rays. My microwave generally needs to run for a minimum of 20 seconds to result in any noticeable heating of the food.
darkoshi: (Default)
Two years ago, I went on a roadtrip with Qiao.

We brought a cooler with ice packs to keep food and drinks cold. I refroze the ice packs in motel room freezers overnight.




I remember the above refrigerator rather well, as the freezer compartment was so frosted up with ice that at first the flap wouldn't even open far enough to allow access to the compartment. Once I got the flap open, there was so much ice in the compartment that the freezer packs didn't fit inside.

The above photos were with the fridge unplugged and its door open to help melt the ice. But it would have taken all night to defrost it that way.
I ended up manually defrosting the freezer with warm water and a washcloth.

.

Yesterday, [personal profile] andrewducker posted a photo of his son exploring a similarly small refrigerator (probably even smaller). Replying to a comment of mine, he posted a link to this black refrigerator. Take a look at the 2nd photo on that page which shows the fridge interior.
Then look at my photos above.

The motel room refrigerator model was an Igloo FR320I. I know that because I also took a photo of the placard listing the model #, in order to look up its defrosting instructions. The fridge at the link is an Adexa. But they look exactly the same inside.

tp / bidet

Monday, June 15th, 2020 01:27 am
darkoshi: (Default)
Today I learned that the "Total Area" listed on packages of toilet paper is the amount for all the rolls together, not the amount per roll. The numbers made a lot more sense once I realized that. I'd been trying to figure out how the 240-sheet rolls could possibly have a bigger area than the same-size 300-sheet rolls... but they didn't; the package just had more rolls in it.

.

I'm thinking of getting one of those non-electric toilet bidet attachments. I plan to try it out on a toilet that only I use, which ought to reduce the squick factor a lot for me, but still I don't know.

If any of you has advice on what to look for or what to avoid, please share.

They look so weird to me. Little tubes ejecting and angling upwards. So phallic.

At first I was thinking of trying out a "bidet bottle" instead, and maybe I still will. But even the ones with long spouts must be awkward to use.

don't want lint

Sunday, December 8th, 2019 11:12 pm
darkoshi: (Default)
Reminder to self (if I write it down enough times, maybe I'll remember):

NEVER wash light colored towels (including the kitchen towels) with my normal dark clothes. IT LEAVES LINT! I don't want to have to brush lint off each shirt and each shirt sleeve, inside and outside!

It's probably best not to even wash darker towels together with the clothes. Try washing all the towels together with the whites.. but hopefully that won't result in dark lint on the whites.

The brown sweater has light-colored fleece inside. Maybe it is a culprit too. Maybe only wash it together with towels too.
darkoshi: (Default)
Note to self: When using Qiao's gas stove, note that turning the dial past the high setting makes the flames get smaller again. Maybe that's why it was taking so long for the water to boil this time.

Every time I use that stove, I come up with another hypothesis as why it takes so long to boil the water or to cook the food: 1) The burner grate must not have been on straight, causing the pot to be further from the flames. 2) The top left burner seems to produce bigger flames than the bottom right one; I should use the former instead of the latter. 3) ...

When I turn on the stove hood's fan, air blows out of a vent on the top of the hood back into the kitchen. That confused me the first time I noticed it. But from what I've read, some hoods can be installed to either vent air out through a vent pipe, or (for those without a vent pipe) through a filter back into the kitchen. The cabinet over Qiao's stove has a vent pipe going through it. So I wonder if whoever installed the hood did it wrong. I need to figure out how to check that someday.

I dislike the smell of the exhaust gasses from the stove. It's not a smoky smell nor an (unburned) natural gas smell, but still not something that seems healthy to breathe in. (It's sort of like the stuffy smell you get from burning candles, but worse.) Maybe if the hood were working right, there'd be less of that smell. In the meantime, when I use the stove or oven, I open some windows and turn on a standing fan to blow the exhaust gasses outside.
darkoshi: (Default)
Sometimes it takes me an hour of not being able to fall asleep, to realize it's because I'm feeling cold. In spite of the thick blankets, fleece sheets, and the electric blanket at my feet.

Now I got out of bed for a while and turned the heater up.

Yesterday morning, the heater wasn't working. Only the night before, I'd been reading and replying about someone else's thermostat problem. My problem wasn't due to the thermostat, though. The furnace was getting power and making the buzzy noise that meant it was starting up, but then would stop before the hot air started blowing.

I called the person who replaced the heater's control board 3 years ago when it last had a problem. His voicemail said he was unavailable til tomorrow, but forwarded me to someone else. Of all luck, they happened to be nearby getting supplies for another job, and were able to stop by in under an hour and easily fix it. Based on what I saw them do and what they told me, and what I looked up afterwards, there was some small debris that they cleared out from a tube, which had been causing the pressure switch not to close

The pressure switch is a safety mechanism that prevents the gas from being turned on and the flame from getting lit when the airflow isn't normal.

http://www.grayfurnaceman.com/gas-furnace-pressure-switch-problems.html

From looking at the documentation that came with the control board, its LEDs were actually flashing the error code for "Pressure Switch Open". I didn't realize it was an error code, because the flashing was steady, rather than a certain number of flashes followed by a pause. If there's ever a problem again, I need to remember to check those LEDs as one of the first troubleshooting steps.
darkoshi: (Default)
Such as the small freezer compartments in the mini refrigerators often found in motels...
(It was so full of ice that the little freezer flap wouldn't even open more than part-way, because of ice on the hinge area.)

First I tried chipping away at some of the ice with a screwdriver. That didn't work well.

I thought of using the motel room's hair-dryer, but it was mounted to the wall and the cord didn't reach far enough.

I looked up the refrigerator model's manual online. It said NOT to try to chip away the ice as that could cause damage. It said NOT to use a hair-dryer as that could deform the plastic parts. It said to turn the refrigerator off and wait for it to melt. With a warm bowl of water inside to speed things along. But that would have still taken too long.

I tried tossing teaspoonfuls of warm water onto the ice at the top of the hinge, but that didn't work well.

So then I ran hot water on a washcloth and used the warm washcloth to melt the ice, with a towel at the bottom of the fridge to catch dripping water. I wrung out the washcloth over the sink and repeated it many times. Once I got the flap to open all the way, I continued melting away much of the frost and the ice inside the freezer compartment. Using a small hand-towel would have worked well too, maybe even faster.

dryer dryer

Sunday, September 15th, 2019 12:18 am
darkoshi: (Default)
Well, shucks.

The last time I had a problem with my dryer, back in 2014, the drum was making a squeaky sound (per my notes) while turning, and adjusting the rear drum seal fixed it.

Over a year ago, the drum started making a bad noise again. When I turned the dryer off and checked inside, there was also a bad smell. So I haven't used it since then. I usually hang my clothes up to dry anyway.

Today I finally got time to check what was wrong with the dryer. I thought it might be that rear seal again, so I checked what a replacement seal would cost. The only one I found for sale online is $252! So then I knew if that needed replacing, it wouldn't be worth it. I might as well get a new dryer, or just use Q's when I really need one.

But I went ahead and removed the dryer's top and back panel to see what was causing the noise. It doesn't seem to be the seal this time. It's more of a rattling noise, and it's coming from the drive motor. I didn't find any replacement drive motors for sale, for this model dryer. So I guess that's it for this dryer, unless I want to take the motor out and check it closer up...

But anyway, the dryer drum makes a nice sound when I drum on it. I'm tempted to keep the drum and get rid of the rest of the dryer. But it'll take space. It doesn't have a flat top, so I couldn't even use it as a table or stand. So I really oughtn't think of keeping it. Hrmmm.
darkoshi: (Default)
Someone left a thank you on an informational entry I posted over 5 years ago about the lint filter on my old washing machine. Yay, that's why I post those kind of things sometimes. To help anyone else who may encounter the same problems I did.

Today I used my lithium battery-powered leaf blower (Greenworks model 24282). Sometimes it sucks my clothes against the bottom side where it pulls air in. When that happens, I shift it further away from myself. But today it sucked in the drawstring on my pants, tore off a piece, and started making a bad noise. So I turned it off.

This evening I extricated the piece of drawstring that had gotten stuck inside the unit. After removing the nozzle, I could see the piece by looking in through the front of the unit with a flashlight. But it was stuck so tight that pulling on it with long tweezers and a long-necked pair of pliers wasn't able to get it free. So I opened the blower up. It has 13 screws on one side which hold the 2 halves of the housing together. After removing the screws, I couldn't get the halves apart at first. Finally I noticed there was a plastic warning sticker* under the handle, right over where the halves joined together. That was also holding them together. Cutting a slit down the middle of the sticker allowed the halves to came apart easily.

Pulling on the drawstring as I'd been doing before had gotten it stuck worse. It needed to be pulled out inwards from the center of the fan, rather than outwards. With the unit open, it was easy to do.

*One of the tiny icons on the sticker even warns against wearing loose clothing. Though without looking at the manual as I'm doing now, I wouldn't have been able to figure out that's what the icon represented. Another icon warns about long hair... yikes, that would be worse to get stuck. The blower is so light and easy to use (and unlike other tools, doesn't have any sharp blades; it only blows air!) that I hadn't thought of it as potentially dangerous.

..

Now I feel inspired to try fixing my dryer (I did once before already, so have an idea what the problem is). But starting to dismantle a dryer at 3am is not a good idea.

blown out

Sunday, March 31st, 2019 04:51 pm
darkoshi: (Default)
Whenever I change the bag on the vacuum cleaner at Q's house, I wish I had another vacuum cleaner to clean out all the dust from inside it. Shaking it out only helps a little. Today I had the idea of taking it outside and using the leafblower on it. That worked.

dorndor

Saturday, November 17th, 2018 02:34 am
darkoshi: (Default)
Finally, some refrigerators with a door-in-door feature similar to my 1984 Whirlpool fridge's "Serva-Door".

https://www.lg.com/us/discover/instaview-door-in-door

lavender

Tuesday, August 7th, 2018 11:20 pm
darkoshi: (Default)
Note to self: Do not wash the purple knit sweater with any light-colored clothes, as it bleeds, a lot.
darkoshi: (Default)
Dear GE,

I spend too much time agonizing over which setting to choose on the cycle selector knob on your washing machine. The choices do not make sense to me.

There is a Soil Level knob, and a Water Temperature knob, and both of those make sense. High Soil Level = longer wash cycle, and/or stronger agitation, right? The Water Temperature has perhaps too many choices (tap cold vs cold vs cool) but I can handle that. At least I can figure out what the difference is between them.

But the cycle selector knob has 13 options, and no matter which one I choose, it might be the wrong choice!

Why are there choices for "Whites", "Colors", "Dark Colors", and "Cold Wash"? The water temperature knob is supposed to control whether the water is hot or cold. Aren't whites supposed to be washed in warm or hot water, while colors are supposed to be washed in cold? What in god's name will happen if I set the water temperature to Hot, and select "Cold Wash" or "Dark Colors"??

Why are there different choices for "Heavy Duty" and "Jeans"? Aren't jeans heavy duty?
What if I had white jeans to wash?? Would I choose Whites, Heavy Duty, or Jeans?
What if I wanted to wash white jeans together with white sheets? Would I choose Whites, Towels/Sheets, or Jeans?

Why is there a "Towels/Sheets" selection? Towels are among the thickest heaviest things to wash, while sheets are among the lightest.

Why are there different selections for "Casuals" and "Active Wear"... oh wait, I remember now from reading the instructions, that "active wear" means stuff worn while one does sports and gets all sweaty, right? So if I have a sweaty clothes, maybe I should choose that rather than the other choices. But what if the sweaty clothes are dark-colored? Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhh..............!!!

What if I wash one small colored towel along with medium and dark colored clothes? Will it cause the clothes to come out with lint? Had I better not include the towel?


The instructions say that the "Whites" option should be used for "Whites and household linens". But don't linens belong under "Towels/Sheets"?? Or does "household linens" refer to linen table cloths instead of linen sheets?...

For "Towels/Sheets", the instructions say "It is recommended that towels and sheets be washed separately for best care and washing performance". At first I thought that meant that they should be washed separately from other clothes, using this option. But now it occurred to me that maybe it means that towels should be washed separately from sheets! Gahhhh. Why does it have to be so difficult. I never had a problem washing towels together with sheets in the past.

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