darkoshi: (Default)
My oven's touchpad isn't working right. The Temperature Up button makes the temperature go down. The Down button brings up Auto Clean. So I am stuck at a maximum temperature of 350, unless I want to Broil something.

It had a similar problem in 2015. Back then on the original Whirlpool unit, the Temperature Down button failed first. I was able to purchase and install a 3rd-party replacement touchpad to fix it, for $200. Now, it looks like a replacement may no longer be available. I've emailed the company I bought it from last time to find out for sure.

Looking up the problem, there are many videos indicating that oven touchpad buttons failing is a common problem with all brands. In most examples, the buttons don't work at all rather than doing the wrong thing. The videos show how to clean the ribbon cable contacts to fix the problem. One guy said that fixes the problem 70% of the time. I didn't try that back in 2015, but did yesterday. Today I tried it again, just to make sure I got those contacts very clean. It didn't fix my problem.

Maybe one of the resistors in the touchpad is shorted. I was looking at the photo I'd made of its wiring prior to installing it. Groups of buttons are wired together along the same metal connector thingy, with what looks like a flat resistor between each one. The control unit probably determines which button was pressed based on the voltage between the various connectors. If the resistor right after the Auto Clean button is shorted, that could result in my problem. Unfortunately the Temp Up button is the last in the path, so there's no other button I can press to make the temperature go up. It's strange that basically the same buttons failed both times, on different brands of touchpads.

Oh well. Being able to bake only at 350 degrees is better than not baking at all. I want to still bake something tonight.

If these touchpads failing is such a common problem, they ought to make more ovens with manual knob controls like in the old days.

Earlier this year, my microwave oven's touchpad was also acting up. Some of the buttons didn't respond, or only when pressed in a specific way. I tried one suggested fix (blow dryer) which didn't help. Later on, the problem went away on its own. Probably seasonal/humidity related.
darkoshi: (Default)
I recorded both the opening and closing ceremonies from the Paris Olympics and finally got to watch most of the opening ceremony today. (Due to how it was recorded, I started off as the "L" teams were sailing by, and watched to the end. Now I've also watched from the beginning to the "E" teams. I hope to watch the rest tomorrow or rather later today.)

I've been quite enjoying it; it is so good!

Having started watching it in the middle, it was all quite suspenseful and surprising to me (I didn't know for sure that the boats meant there'd be no traditional parading of athletes into the stadium... nor even a traditional stadium).

The people in flowing dresses on top of long poles on the bridge, swaying back and forth and in circles! Very surreal yet familiar somehow. I can envision/feel myself doing that, despite my usual fear of heights.

In the library segment, I wished they'd translated the titles of the French books they showed. I reversed the video and paused it several times to write down the book titles. With help from a couple of other sites as well as Google translate, they are:

Paul Verlaine: Romances Sans Parole (Songs Without Words / Wordless Romances?)
Alfred Louis Charles de Musset: On Ne Badine Pas Avec L'Amour (Love is No Joke / You don't joke with love?)
Annie Ernaux: Pasion Simple (Simple Passion)
Guy de Maupassant: Bel-Ami (Good Friend)
Leïla Slimani: Sexe Et Mensonges (Sex and Lies)
Raymond Radiguet: Le Diable au Corps (The Devil Within)
Pierre Ambroise François Choderlos de Laclos: Les Liaisons Dangeureuses (Dangerous Liaisons)
Molière: Les Amants Magnifiques (The Magnificent Lovers)
Marivaux: Le Triomphe De L'Amour (The Triumph of Love)

That segment ended with a presumed threesome as the door closed!

The iPhone commercial where the security cams get wings and take off flying - those look cute to me, even with the single red "eye". It seems a mean thing for the iPhone to blow them up; they were just being curious!

I like the split-screen way the NBC broadcast showed some of the segments, so one could choose to continue watching the boats or other entertainment in the one window while the interviews took place in the 2nd window.

The boats going up and down in the waves! Is it normal for the Seine to have such high waves? Did any of the athletes get sea sick?

The singing decapitated Marie Antoinettes in the windows! With heavy metal and pink smoke!

The silvery mechanical horse running down the river (with silvery rider)! That was so cool!!!

The Eiffel tower light show at the end! The disco music! OMG SO AWESOME!!!

The giant floating fiery hot-air-balloon cauldron!

.

Some of the segments looked quite dangerous to me. I am glad no one got hurt. (I hope no one got hurt.)

.

I wish the American team weren't shown yelling "U.S.A! U.S.A!" most of the time. It gets so old. I half suspect (only half though) that NBC prompted them to yell it, too. You don't hear most other teams being so nationalistic. I don't watch the Olympics to see the American team in particular, or to cheer on the American team, as NBC seems to want to presume. Nothing against them (let the best athlete win), but American teams and American athletes are shown on American TV all year long.

.

I recorded the opening & closing ceremonies on my Tablo (4th generation) over-the-air digital video recorder (OTA DVR), which I guess I'm still learning to use.
I had scheduled the Tablo to also record the 08/10 Olympics breaking competition on the Telemundo Spanish-language channel. That was the only OTA channel I found which was listed to show the breaking competition. But I'm very disappointed that my Tablo ended up with no trace of that recording. I had recently been very impressed while watching online videos from some other break-dancing competition prior to the Olympics, and had been looking forward to it.

I didn't get to watch any of the other events except for a small amount of speed climbing which was in progress when I turned the TV on one day. I usually like to watch at least some of the gymnastics. But this year the breaking (ahh, can't I still call it break dancing?) sounded like it would be more interesting to me to watch!

OTA DVRs

Thursday, October 13th, 2022 02:48 am
darkoshi: (Default)
DirecTV's DVRs (perhaps only some of them) have a bug such that sometimes when you delete a recording, instead of deleting only the one you had selected, it deletes ALL of the episodes you had recorded of that TV show.

See: DVR deleting entire show list instead of one episode

That thread is 3 years old and you'd think it would be fixed by now. But Qiao's DVR has had the problem as far back as November 2020, and it still happens, even though its firmware appears to be up to date. The problem seems to happens when we delete two or more recordings in a row. To avoid the problem, we have to either not delete any episodes until we've caught up and watched all of them (the safest method), or only delete one, then back out of the menu and come back in if we want to delete another.

When I'm not at Qiao's house, he records the daily Jeopardy episodes so we can watch them together when I come by. So there is usually a backlog of many episodes for us to watch. But when there are re-runs, we want to delete those from the list. Because of the DVR bug, it has now happened 3 times that the DVR has deleted our whole backlog of unwatched Jeopardy episodes when we only selected to delete a few re-runs!

It's a (big yet muted) disappointment each time it happens. (On one hand, they are only TV episodes, and not even part of story arc. But I looked forward to watching them, and then they're abruptly taken away. The lost ones included some of the last season which Trebek hosted before his passing.)
As far as I have found, past Jeopardy episodes aren't officially available anywhere to watch at will. That makes no sense to me. Why would such a popular show have no way for people to watch missed episodes? Even when an episode is pre-empted for whatever reason, there's no way to go back and watch it. From what I've read, that's even more disappointing for the contestants who played on those days, as their friends and neighbors end up not being able to see their performance.

One can find recent episodes various people have posted to YouTube, if they haven't gotten taken down yet, but it's a matter of luck.

Anyway.

We could talk to DirecTV tech support about the DVR problem, but I haven't felt up to it. I suspect they'd want to replace the DVR. I'm not convinced that would fix the problem, and it would probably mean losing the other recordings on the DVR that we haven't yet watched. I don't have time to catch up with watching everything at once, as there are always more shows being recorded in the meantime. It's a Catch-22.

So. I had the idea to get an over-the-air (OTA) DVR, for recording shows like Jeopardy that don't require cable to watch. We could have it as backup.

It turns out there are some fancy OTA DVRs that even let you stream recordings to your mobile devices, and even when you're not at home. But they have limitations such as only working with some kinds of TVs, requiring a monthly fee or being very expensive, etc.

So then I looked for and found more basic DVRs, like VHS recorders used to be. With these DVRs, instead of having to supply VHS tapes, you have to supply your own external hard drive. But the user reviews I've read have given me concerns. One review said a DVR ruined their TV's HDMI port. I'd hate that to happen. Other reviews mention other problems. I'll just have to choose one that sounds the best. Or forget about it and live without it.
darkoshi: (Default)
I'd been swapping my wired keyboard and wireless mouse (one of the older ones with a wired transceiver, not the nano USB adapters they have now) between my personal laptop and my work laptop at the start and end of each work day.

One of the laptop's USB ports started getting loose, such that the mouse connection would drop & reconnect every once in a while. I used a toothpick to pull up on the prongs inside the port. That is a possible fix for a loose port problem, but it didn't make much difference in my case.

That made me realize that plugging & unplugging items into the USB ports multiple times a day isn't a good idea.

Not only was I swapping the keyboard & mouse; I was also swapping the position of the laptops on my desk. Therefore using a separate wired keyboard & mouse for each laptop wasn't ideal either. It's hard to move laptops around with peripherals plugged into them. It's also not practical to keep peripherals plugged in when carrying the laptops back and forth between Qiao's place and mine.

Using the laptops' built-in keyboard and trackpad isn't good either. I can't type nearly as fast on them, and it's quite frustrating.

I thought a good solution would be to get a separate wireless keyboard/mouse combo using a single nano USB adapter for each laptop. It is a good solution. (Except for the minor problem that I might need a bigger laptop bag now for my personal laptop, as having a nano USB adapter plugged into the side makes it not fit into the bag. Which is hard to believe as it's less than a centimeter difference, but yeah. Or I could simply unplug the nano adapter for that; that's not something I need to do every day.)

Today after eating lunch I noticed some grease spots on the wireless keyboard I'd been using. This keyboard doesn't have an on/off switch; it goes to sleep automatically when not in use. So I carried the keyboard all the way into the bathroom to wipe it off, thinking that was surely far enough away that any keys I pressed while cleaning it wouldn't be recognized on the laptop.

Much to my surprise, when I carried the keyboard back to the laptop, I saw that the keypresses had still registered on the laptop! The bathroom is about 35 feet away, with 2 walls in between. I had no idea the wireless signals being used were strong enough to travel that far!

Later I tested the other wireless keyboard and mouse, which are made by a different company. They also work from far away. I tested the mouse outside the house from the porch, with the front door and storm door closed, about 20 feet from my laptop. The mouse's scroll wheel still was able to scroll the browser page open on my laptop.

That got me to wondering whether using a wireless keyboard can be a security risk. Suppose someone planted a device outside your home to record the signals from your keyboard, thereby capturing all your key presses, including any user IDs and passwords you type. Maybe a malicious app on your phone could even listen for wireless keyboard signals, and secretly record your keystrokes.

From what I've read now, wireless keyboards & mice may use encryption to prevent that kind of thing. But how can you know if yours are using encryption or not? I don't recall reading that in the specs of the ones I have. I will have to look up more on that.

The first thing I found when searching on it was not about the keyboard signals being captured, but rather hackers transmitting their own signals to control your mouse, "mousejacking".

I wonder if having my hands on these wireless-transmitting devices all day (as well as being within a few feet of the laptop's wi-fi signals) is deleterious to my health. The cell phones and iPad are also usually not far away. The wifi router is a bit further away, but still not that far. And there are several other devices in the house that send out wireless signals. I know they say it's nothing to be concerned about. But maybe it all adds up. I wonder.

And then there's the physical problems one can get simply from typing a lot and using a mouse. My right wrist has been achy today.
darkoshi: (Default)
I've set up one of my Wyze cams outside on the porch. Its power cable connects to the porch's lamp fixture. The lamp fixture has 2 candelabra-sized bulb sockets. I screwed a candelabra-to-regular-size socket adapter in one of the sockets, and into that a socket-to-outlet adapter. Into that, I plugged the Wyze cam's power adapter, which converts the 110V AC power to the 5V USB used by the camera.

With this setup, the lamp's power has to be kept turned on so that the camera can work 24/7. I'd like to have a bulb in the lamp's 2nd socket, but don't want the bulb on during the daytime.

I could use a daylight-sensor adapter along with a regular bulb. If the light were to be on all night, it should be a yellow bug-light to reduce the number of flying insects attracted to the porch area.

There are bug lights with candelabra bases. But when one adds a light sensor adapter to it, which also requires a socket adapter, they might not all fit into the lamp fixture. And daylight sensors haven't worked well for me in the past, especially under a porch roof which limits the amount of light that gets to the sensor.

I don't really want to keep the porch light on all night anyway. There's enough light from the nearby street lamp for most purposes.

So I instead tried out a remote-controlled color-changing light bulb. I can set it to an orange-yellow color, and can turn it on and off with the included remote. But I found that the remote control has to be fairly close to the bulb to work, and it doesn't work through the house wall.

If there's someone on the porch whose face you want to see more clearly before opening the door, having to step outside with the remote to turn on the light isn't practical.

Then I started thinking about smart bulbs controlled by wi-fi. Wyze now has smart bulbs, so I bought one of them to try out. These bulbs can be adjusted between warm & daylight whites but not to other colors. Therefore I wouldn't put it on the porch and leave it turned on all night, as that would attract insects. But it should suffice for intermittent on/off porch use.

To control the bulb, one can use the Wyze app on one's smartphone. That should work through the house wall just like the Wyze cam does. But I'd prefer a simpler and quicker way to turn the bulb on & off.

Qiao had bought an Echo Dot a long time ago, but for whatever reason never set it up. Lately, I've been curious to try it out. If I were to keep the echo dot near my front door, I should be able to turn the bulb on and off with voice commands without needing to touch my phone or have the phone nearby.

Setting up the Echo Dot requires using the Alexa app. I'm not sure I want to install Alexa on my phone, because of all the permissions it requires. Maybe I could disable some of the permissions that bother me, before it gets a chance to download all my contact info and texts to the Amazon servers somewhere, but I'm not sure.

I wouldn't mind installing Alexa on the iPad as I don't have much personal info on it, but the iPad is v9, and Alexa requires v11.

So now I'm looking if there's a way to set it up without having Alexa on my phone... Per this page, it may be possible: Can I set up and use an Echo without having a Smart phone?

I got to wondering if this approach would still work when the internet is down but my wi-fi is still up. My voice would activate the Echo Dot... would the Echo send a command message directly to the bulb? Or would it send a message over the internet to the Wyze servers or to some IFTTT server, which would then control the bulb? I'm not sure yet. (For that matter, does the Echo need to send my voice command to a server somewhere, to decode it and determine what command I am giving? I think it does. Otherwise Amazon's servers wouldn't have recordings of your voice commands, but from what I've read, they do. That would explain this report where all of a home's smart devices stopped working during an internet outage.)

All this because of that cam on the porch, and I'm not even sure I like it out there. It's too easy for someone to steal or vandalize. Pointing down from the soffit, it's field of view isn't even very good. I'd really like to install a few more cameras outside in other locations, but those aren't as well protected and don't have as easy access to a power supply, so would require more work.

But still, it is some fun trying these things out.

Wyze keeps coming out with neat new things. They're working on an outdoor camera that will be battery-powered. That will make things like this a lot easier, maybe.

..

Update, 2019/12/09:
Yesterday I also mounted a Wyze motion sensor above the front door. That lets me get a notification on my phone (if desired), or a video clip to be saved to the cloud when motion is detected in that area. The cams themselves have motion detection based on analyzing the video stream, but that gets triggered too often to be very useful (from branches moving in the wind, cars driving by, etc.). The motion sensor is triggered by body heat, so should be more discerning.

I had already mounted a contact sensor on the front door a week or so ago, which also lets you trigger events.

So last night I realized I could set up an IFTTT (if-this-then-that) trigger so that when motion is detected, to turn on the light bulb for a few minutes. I could also include conditions to only do it when it is after sunset, or only when the door is currently closed.

Then I realized I could mount another contact sensor on the inside wall by the door, with another trigger set up for it, and thereby have the sensor be a pseudo-light-switch (to be able to turn the light on without first opening the door), controlled by me manually moving one half of the sensor away from the other half.

But only as long as the internet and wi-fi are up and working.

Update, 2019/12/12:
I have discovered that the Wyze app lets you set up simple rules/triggers, so having an ifttt.com account isn't even necessary. The rules can be like "when motion is detected and it is between 8pm and 6am, turn on the light" or "if the light has been on for 5 minutes, turn it off", and so on.
darkoshi: (Default)
I have a feeling I've already lived this moment. It's too late to be 1am.

If it's 1:30am on a fall-back time-change night, and there are no manual clocks in the vicinity, how can you tell if the time has already changed back or not... if you're in the first or second 1am hour?

I have a manual watch which I can check, and it says 2:30am. But the laptop, both cell phones, the no-longer-used house phone, the thermostat, and the box under the TV all say 1:30. The programmable light-switch does too. They all update the time automatically. If it weren't for my watch, I'd have no easy way of knowing. At the other house, there are several clocks that need to be updated manually, but here it's eerie how they all seem to conspire together to keep me in the dark.
darkoshi: (Default)
First big set of coincidences:

Yesterday afternoon I searched for "Who is Nurse Ratchett". Qiao calls me that jokingly sometimes, when I'm helping him with medical stuff such as after his surgeries.

It turns out that "Nurse Ratched" is a character in the movie "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest". So I started reading about that movie and the book it was based on. I watched some video clips. I've probably seen the movie before, but I didn't remember it well.

I started watching this video about the book and movie: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BHR6xTmwC8
At 2:20, the video mentions that Ken Kesey, the book's author, took part in an experiment at his university. It was a covert experiment being done by the CIA, testing LSD on people; part of what was called "Project MK-ULTRA". The video says "And if you think it's shocking that the United States government would use its citizens as guinea pigs, look it up. It was part of a project, project MK ULTRA. Google it."

So I duck-duck-go'd it and started reading about Project MKUltra. Depressing stuff. The world sucks and has always sucked, don't you forget it.

(I didn't even think of it til just now, but Qiao rewatched Bourne:Ultimatum yesterday evening. That's a coincidence too, considering how it deals with covert CIA "behavior modification training -- which involved torture tactics and psychological manipulation to muddy agents' moral compasses.")

Anyway. Today at work I was listening to music on my phone, in random order like always.

This song came on: "Psience", by Psychophysicist, from the Album "Deepnet" (disk 2).
It's a long eerie song, with a small amount of speech; a man's voice recounting something:
"We had been really chasing a phantom, if you will, an illusion that the human mind was more capable of manipulation from the outside, by outside factors, than it is. We found out that the human being is an extremely complex thing. There were no simple solutions. We got trapped a lot of times with complexities and illusions that didn't exist. But you've just got to bear in mind that these were very strange times."

It sounded oddly like what I'd been reading about yesterday.

Sure enough. I've looked it up now, and the quote is attributed to Dr. John Gittinger - CIA Chief Psychologist 1950-74: The Rise of the 20th Century Mind Control Agenda

This is a clip of that part of the song, if you're interested:

Video title: VA - Deepnet
Posted by: Psychedelic Superbeast
URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAxcOFOiSmI
Date posted: Sep 4, 2019

(That's the only clip of the song I found on YouTube. The original CD is from 1996. Someone posted it 5 days ago. What's the odds of that?!! This keeps getting weirder!)

Later, while driving home, I turned on the radio to NPR. This segment was playing:
The CIA's Secret Quest For Mind Control: Torture, LSD And A 'Poisoner In Chief'. It's about the person who ran MK-ULTRA!!!

..

2nd smaller set of coincidences (things breaking / not working):

1. At work, I accidentally dropped my phone from the desk to the carpet. The phone seems ok, but the audio cord for my headphones was plugged into the phone at the time, and its plug got bent. I bent it back, but a wire must have broken, as sound doesn't come out of the right channel anymore.

2. When I got home, that NPR episode was still playing, so I hurried inside and tried to tune the station on one of our radios. I couldn't get the station to tune in! I tried another radio and couldn't get it to tune in there either! I went back to the car... no problem tuning in there, but the segment just ended. Oh well. But why can't the inside radios pick up that station anymore? It used to be one of the strong stations!

I tried tuning the station on the FM Radio app on my phone. That works, but only when I'm holding the phone in a certain position.

3. I wondered if I could tune into FM radio stations on the TV. I think I've come across that option before, haven't I? I checked the channel list and TV menus and didn't find FM radio there. So I duck-duck-go'd how to get FM Radio on TV, and the search results mentioned apps.

Ah! I switched the TV to the Amazon FireTV input, which has apps on it. We don't use that input very often. But the FireTV box wasn't responding to the remote. Sigh. This always happens when we want to use it. I unplugged the box and plugged it back in. The remote still didn't work. I checked its batteries. They are dead. That's odd. Then I notice that the battery contacts in the remote have white powdery stuff on them too. ARGH. I hope the remote isn't ruined. Now I need to open it up to clean it up as well as I can.
darkoshi: (Default)
My internet speed has been sporadically slow again the last week or so.

It's probably an ISP problem.

But I wondered if the 2 Wyze cams I had connected to my network were involved, either by using so much bandwidth that less is available for my laptop, or maybe due to my ISP throttling my speed after noticing the increase in traffic from the cams.

Right now, the cams are both pointed outside. Each time they detect motion, they upload a short clip to the cloud. I have the detection windows set to ignore the street, but still get a bunch of spurious clips of bushes moving in the wind and cars driving by. When cars drive by at night, turning the corner, their headlamps shine into my yard, which triggers the events, even if the cars themselves don't.

On my router (a Netgear WNDR3400), I had enabled the "guest network" for the cam connections. Devices attached to the guest network can't interact with devices on the main network, or with each other. That way, if someone manages to hack into the cameras, they shouldn't be able to get to my main network and my laptop.

My router shows traffic logs, but only in terms of traffic per day/week/month. It's not broken down by source, so I can't currently see how much traffic is being used by the cams, nor what IP addresses they communicate with. (I became curious about the latter after reading this thread: WyzeCam sending data to servers other than AWS. Per the thread responses, it doesn't seem to be an issue anymore, but it wouldn't hurt to double check. I seriously wonder how the Wyzecam company can make money off of the cameras when they are so inexpensive (under $30) and when they also provide free cloud storage space for each camera, along with all the bandwidth used in uploading & viewing the clips on the cloud.)

Today in the router settings I disabled the guest network for a while to disconnect the cameras, to see if doing that improved my internet speed. It didn't. (I could have instead unplugged the cameras, but I figured that disabling the network would be simpler. Oh, was I wrong.)

I decided to power cycle the modem & router. I used to do that every night, but since getting the cams, I've been leaving them turned on all the time. Maybe they just needed to be rebooted to fix the internet speed problem.

But after the power cycle, my laptop and phone were no longer able to connect to my main wi-fi network.

Connecting my laptop to the router via a LAN cable worked ok. I verified that my main wi-fi network was still enabled, with the same name and password. I turned everything off and on a few times, but it still wasn't working. The phone was showing "Authentication problem" when trying to connect. I made it forget the network, and re-entered the wi-fi password, and it still didn't work.

Finally, I re-enabled the guest network. Whaddayaknow: Then my laptop and phone were able to connect to wi-fi again, even though they aren't using the guest network. So there must be some bug in the router software.

Now that the guest network is back up, the cams are still failing to reconnect, even after power cycling them. So, that's probably ANOTHER bug in the router software. Update: power cycling the modem & router again fixed that problem.

Earlier today, I'd considered getting a different router which would allow me to track the traffic used by each attached device (can any of you recommendation a router that supports that?). Now I'm even more inclined to do so.
darkoshi: (Default)
I've been feeling fairly chipper today, considering I got less than 4 hours sleep last night. I should have gotten 6, but had trouble falling asleep.

.

Remember that big tree at work by the pond, which a beaver started chewing on over a year ago? The trunk finally was chewed all the way through. At first, the tree fell over onto a nearby tree and leaned that way for a while. Then it finally fell down into the pond. Within a few days of that, the grounds-people had taken it away. So much for all that work you did, beaver. I have photos; may post them one of these days.

The beaver (or beavers) have been gnawing on a bunch of other smaller trees too, and the small trunks get chewed through a lot quicker. One of the felled trees had nice bright green leaves, some kind of evergreen; I felt sad for the pretty tree. The grounds-people had removed it by the next day too.

.

I bought two Wyze cams to try out. They are inexpensive, and let you record 12 second motion-activated clips and store them online for 2 weeks, for free. You can view the clips from your phone, and you can configure it to notify you when motion is detected. The cameras can also store video to a micro SD card, and you can view the camera live streams on your phone when you are away from home. So far, the cams seem really neat. One drawback is that after each 12 second clip that is stored online, it doesn't save more until after 5 minutes have passed. But if you have the SD card installed and keep your home's wi-fi running all the time, after getting a notification, you can make a note of the time, and then go and view the continuous video recording from the SD card, all remotely from your phone.

I have had a few problems so far. A 32 GB microSD card works fine, but an old 4GB card doesn't seem to work. And when I turned off my wi-fi overnight, for some reason the camera stopped recording an hour later until I turned wi-fi on again in the morning. Supposedly from what I read, it is supposed to keep recording to the card even when the wi-fi goes out. I'll have to try that again.

[ Update: It happened again; this time it stopped recording half an hour after turning off the router and wi-fi. So maybe that's not supported after all, but I will check. ]

I'm not sure how good these would be for security purposes (if a burglar can get to them, they can steal the camera along with the SD card, and then the recording on the SD card won't do you much good.) But for remotely monitoring things, they seem quite neat. This is the kind of security camera I've been looking for, where you don't have to pay an ongoing fee yet still can access the video streams remotely, and get notifications and all.

Admittedly, I have been viewing the video streams and clips only when connected to wi-fi (both at my house and remotely), as I don't want to use up my phone plan's data. Between yesterday and today, just from my playing around with it, the app on the phone has used half a Gig of wi-fi data. If I were using the phone's data, I'm not sure how long it would take for the video and clips to load.
darkoshi: (Default)
Qiao is switching from AT&T to Spectrum for his TV & internet (& home phone). He was paying about $130/month with AT&T, but the initial 2 year contract period was over and they had told him his bill was going to increase substantially (wow, way for them to shoot themselves in the foot. I don't understand why they would do that when there's still a cheaper alternative in town.)

So now he's supposedly going to be paying about $120/month with Spectrum. He didn't need the home phone part, but without bundling it, his bill would have instead been $150/month. (I don't understand that part either; even though I believe someone else on my list had mentioned something similar with their bill.)

In comparison, I don't subscribe to cable or satellite TV. I only watch over-the-air channels, and internet streaming. (Though I do also watch Q's TV, when I'm over at his house.) My internet bill is $41.95/month. My home phone bill is now nearly $36/month, but I plan to drop that in the near future.

Anyway, Spectrum installed the cable line in Q's house today, and this evening we tried to get everything working again. Q had bought his own router... the wired internet connection on it was working but not wi-fi, even though the wi-fi had worked earlier. I finally figured out that the router had a wi-fi button which had accidentally been switched off.

Next problem was that the Amazon FireTV box was only partially working. We've had similar trouble with it before. The resolution was set wrong, causing the screen to be black. Because the screen is black, you can't get into the settings to change the resolution. You have to press 2 buttons on the remote for 5 seconds and then it supposedly starts switching between resolutions, so you can choose the one that works. But that wasn't working right either, until after 5 or 6 tries and unplugging and replugging and restarting, it finally did.

Then I started looking through the apps on the Amazon FireTV. Had trouble getting them to work right at first; whenever I clicked on any of them, Netflix kept coming up instead. But then finally the other apps started working too. Youtube & Vimeo, in high resolution on the big screen!

Then I found several German TV apps on it. You can watch German TV shows for free! It's mostly news shows, but there were some other non-news shows mixed in too. I'll have to explore it more. Only in one of those apps did I bump into a geographic restriction preventing it from playing some of the selections.

I guess these apps should work on Android too? I'm not sure.
ARD Mediathek
3Sat Mediathek
Deutsche Welle
ZDF Heute
ARD Tagesschau
And others.

I didn't install this one, but I'm curious about it:
YouTV videorecorder Deutsches TV german television

..

In our area, we used to have Time Warner Cable, but it was taken over by Spectrum.
I thought I had heard that Spectrum and AT&T were planning a merger too, which was concerning to me as then there'd only be one internet & TV company to choose from in this area.

Yes, there are two Time Warners, and AT&T isn’t buying the cable company - from October, 2016. This may explain some of my confusion.
AT&T agreed to buy Time Warner Inc. It is not trying to buy Time Warner Cable.
...
If AT&T wanted to buy Time Warner Cable, it would have to talk with its new owner, cable company Charter Communications that now calls itself Spectrum. It completed a $60 billion buyout of the cable company in May.


But then again:
AT&T and Spectrum To Merge??

oddiyo yo-yo

Monday, March 26th, 2018 10:41 pm
darkoshi: (Default)
And then I almost went to work without my laptop. But luckily, I noticed before driving off.

.


Yesterday I wanted to play some internet radio through my stereo system's speakers, via the audio cable I usually use for that purpose. The cable connects the laptop to the equalizer. The equalizer connects to the receiver via another cable with phono connectors. The speakers are connected to the receiver's speaker outputs, which are the spring-loaded kind that you stick the bare speaker wires into.

I noticed how much white noise was coming from the speakers, before turning the music on. There was also an annoying intermittent rumbling sound. With the radio playing at a low volume, the noise is still audible.

So then instead of listening to music, I messed with my audio system for a few hours. In the process, I came across this term: audio nervosa, which seemed amusingly apt.

The problem seems to be the receiver's speaker connections, not the speakers themselves. I cleaned all the dust out of the receiver's case, but that didn't help. Now I'm using my older set of speakers, which have phono connectors, connected to the equalizer's main-out jacks. The receiver's tape-out jack is connected to the equalizer's audio-in jacks. The laptop audio cable is connected to the equalizer's tape-in jacks.

This way, the speakers are blissfully silent until I turn the music on. A down-side is that I can no longer turn the receiver's radio on with just my remote control; I have to walk over and turn on the equalizer too. Before, I wasn't using the equalizer for the radio.

Another problem is figuring out where to position these speakers. I had been using these to prop up the other speakers (which are smaller and don't have a flat top) up higher, rather than them being directly on the floor. As a temporary solution, I now have the left speaker balanced on an open drawer, to put it at the same height as the other speaker, which is on the same table as the receiver.

A more significant downside is that the receiver's volume control doesn't control the radio volume at all now, and it is fairly loud. How did I not notice this yesterday? Maybe I'll need to change things around again after all, or replace something, or get an extra volume control (amplifier?) box.

Or sheesh, just put it back the way it was to begin with. Maybe.



Update: I now had the idea to connect a cable from the receiver's headphone output to the equalizer's input, as that should be controllable by the volume dial. I'm pretty sure I had done it that way before. But today, I'm not getting any sound that way. Although the sound does work with actual headphones plugged into the jack, but only the left channel... because I'm using a mono 3.5 to large jack adapter instead of a stereo one.. where did I put the stereo one...

Update #2: All fixed now. Found the stereo adapter. Laptop connects to receiver's CD-In jacks. Receiver's headphones-Out jack is connected to the equalizer's Audio-In jacks. Equalizer's Main-Out jacks are connected to the speakers. The receiver's volume control (including the one on its remote) can control the volume for everything. I can even still switch between the laptop audio and the radio with the remote, like I was able to do before. The big speakers are now sitting on top of the smaller speakers which are on the ground; they do have a flat enough surface after all. And no static noise coming from the speakers, woo-yeah!

Pink azaleas:
darkoshi: (Default)
My mom's power went out this evening during a storm, and by the time she called me, her UPS was beeping in alarm mode indicating it would soon be out of power. It's a UPS I had gotten her earlier this year so that her home phone (which uses VOIP) would still work during a power outage. My mom said she didn't have the TV or anything else turned on, so the UPS should have only been powering the internet modem/router, and maybe a few other devices in standby/off mode.

She wasn't home when the power went out, but I estimate it shouldn't have been out for more than 2 hours. The modem/router shouldn't use much power, so I was surprised that the UPS would already be low. So I checked the specs... It's a CyberPower 375 Watt unit and from what I found online, at full load, it can only run for 2 minutes!!! I can't believe I would have bought it knowing that. At the time, I had taken a photo of the side of the box (which listed the specs) for reference, but it doesn't say how long its runtime is. That must have been on the front of the box. This is the only image I found online of the front of the box. The image quality is low, but I decipher it as saying "Four outlets provide up to 65 minutes of runtime during a power outage".

I bet that when I read that, I assumed that time must be for a near-full load. (Because you can always plug in something which uses way less energy, so how could they give any specific number, if not for full load?) Maybe I assumed that for a smaller load, say 37.5 W, it could run for 10 times as long. I do remember looking at the different models in the store and debating which to get, and deciding that this one, even though not the biggest, should suffice for my mom's needs.

But if it can only run at full load for 2 minutes, the 65 minutes would be for a load of... about 12 W?

I did a few more searches.
This 810 Watt model says on the front of the box "Up to 420* Minutes of Backup Power for your Home Theater or Computer". You'd think that would mean at minimum watching TV or using a computer with a monitor.
But the other side of the box says that the 420 minutes is only for using a DVR in record mode (no TV). For a desktop computer, it only provides 58 minutes. For a TV and game console, it only provides 24 minutes.

I finally found another image of the box for my model... not sure if my box was the same. But this one says 65 minutes for DVR while recording, 24 minutes for a computer, and 6 minutes for a 32" TV and game console.

So maybe I should have known better. Maybe I thought a modem/router uses less than a DVR, or that my mom wouldn't need more than an hour's worth. I dunno.
darkoshi: (Default)
My mom sent me a cassette in 1986, back when I was living in the U.S. with my dad, and she was in Germany. She spoke on it, and let several of my German relatives speak on it too during a family gathering over there, and then let it record in the background while relatives were chatting with each other. She and my aunt sent me a few such tapes during those years, and I likewise recorded and sent a few to them. When we ran out of things to speak about, we recorded music on the remainder of the tape.

I must not have listened to this tape in a long time. Six minutes into recording the first side onto my computer, the tape got stuck in the player. I managed to pull the tape back out without breaking it. I twisted the tape back into the shell. The reels weren't turning smoothly or easily, which is why it got stuck. The part of the tape which had been stuck was crinkled up, and I worried that it might get stuck again.

This page: FRUSTRATED by old cassette tapes binding my decks
suggests:
Try slapping the sides of the cassettes firmly against the palm of your hand (do it on both sides.)
This does help in many cases in freeing the layers of tape, and in my case I am talking tapes that go back to 1972.
If the rollers in the cassette are sticking, this could also help loosen them
Then after that, wind them through.


So I tried that. After slapping the cassette, the reels *did* seem to turn more easily. I then fast-forwarded and rewound the whole tape, and started the recording over again. This time it is playing fine.

There are voices on this tape from aunts and uncles who are no longer alive. I didn't even remember that they had spoken on the tape, and that I had any recording of them. What a precious treasure to find.

Update. Ok, while recording the 2nd side, towards the end, the tone started shifting between low and high. So I had to slap the cassette some more, but that fixed it.
darkoshi: (Default)
I bought a USB modem to use for back-up in case my broadband goes down again... It works! It really works!

It gave me a little thrill, hearing the modem noises while it was connecting, and seeing some web pages load successfully (even though the first few attempts were unsuccessful; I may have been too impatient).


I plan to also get a newer cell phone with a bigger data plan for backup too, but frankly the idea of trying out a phone-line dial-up connection again, like in the old days, was too good to pass up.

audio cassettes

Sunday, November 27th, 2016 02:04 pm
darkoshi: (Default)
Yesterday, I was inspired to continue the task of converting my audio cassettes to MP3 files. The longer I postpone it, the more the audio on the cassettes may degrade, and the more likely that the equipment I've been using to do the conversions, will break.

I had already converted all 26 of the cassettes that were official purchased albums. The remaining ones (45 to 50) have music that I recorded from the radio or which other people sent me. The former were simpler to do than the latter (which I'll call mix-tapes even though that term may not be accurate). With the albums, I simply recorded each side of the cassette onto the computer as a audio file, applied noise-reduction, then split the large file into a separate MP3 file for each song.

Right now I am recording the remaining cassettes to audio files, without yet doing any further processing on them. 15 cassettes are already done, leaving about 30 more. I could finish them in another week or two if I keep at it.

Then I'll eventually have to decide:
Should I keep each long 45 minute file, without splitting it by song? That is how I used to listen to them, and would keep the original experience. But some of the songs I really don't care to listen to anymore.

Splitting the files by song would require much extra effort. With the albums, there was silence between each song, and software was able to split them with minimal manual effort. My "mix-tapes" don't have the silences, and they have many more clips per side, all of which I'd have to manually split.

Once I split the songs, I'd be tempted to delete the ones I no longer care for, and to find better versions of the ones I still really enjoy. But the "lower" quality cassette versions of some songs still have a special nostalgic quality, which higher-quality versions simply can't replace. So I'll end up with multiple versions of those.

I think I'll do this:

Keep the full long versions of each cassette for archival/nostalgic purposes.
Also split them into individual files, and keep a full copy of those files just in case I ever want them.
For the remaining songs which I still enjoy listening to, put them in folders where my random-play MP3 player will be able to pick them up.
For the songs which I especially like and don't already have other versions of, see if I can find better versions online to purchase.
darkoshi: (Default)
I've had this radio since about 1981. It still works well. It's much more viscerally satisfying to scroll through stations by turning the tuning knob, compared to modern radios with their seek and scan buttons. And it sounds just as good to me as my larger stereo receiver system does.

The clock display is blank in this video as the button battery went bad and I had to remove it. But after cleaning the battery compartment out and putting in a new battery, the clock still works too.




Video title: Sanyo M1950F Clock Radio Cassette Player
Posted by: Darkoshi
URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qExlCPD_Ypk
darkoshi: (Default)
Sunday evening I pulled out my old Sanyo clock radio/cassette player (model M1950F - like the one in this video except for my AM/FM switch being on the side instead of on the back). The LCD clock display was blank. The button battery had gone bad, leaked, and corroded the battery terminal. I hope to clean it up and get it working again. It - how does one say? - holds memories.

Monday evening after getting home, I found that the cable modem was dead. A couple months ago, while researching my slow internet speed, I had disconnected the coax cable from the UPS and connected the modem directly to the wall-plug. That didn't make a difference, but the speed issues eventually went away, and I forgot about the cable. There was a storm Monday, and a lightning strike must have caused a surge through the coax. All the power cords were plugged into the UPS, and the UPS was even turned off, so the surge couldn't have come in that way.

Luckily, I had already bought a replacement modem when I was having the other issues. So I hooked it up, and called my ISP to activate it. But its internet connection didn't work. Later I found out there was an outage in the area, likely from the same lightning strike.

Tuesday evening, I tried the modem again. The outage had been fixed, and the modem worked, including the internet. But when I hooked it up to the router, the router's internet didn't work. The router must have been damaged too, even though it was still partially working.

Wednesday, Qiao bought a new router and hooked it up. Then we discovered that the printer wouldn't even turn on. It had been connected by an ethernet cable to the router.

So the surge must have come in through the coax into the modem, out through the ethernet cable from the modem to the router, out through the ethernet cable from the router to the printer, and damaged all 3 of them.

Moral of the story: Always keep *all* the cables protected, not only the power cords.

Also this week, my work laptop's battery, which had been "nearing the end of its usable life", finally reached the end.

fifteen volts?

Thursday, April 2nd, 2015 09:46 pm
darkoshi: (Default)
Qiao's no-name Chinese tablet that he bought off Amazon (however long ago) is no longer turning on or taking a charge. After prying the back cover off with the help of some plastic toothpicks, I can see the battery model number. The only place the battery is for sale is on aliexpress.com.

To make sure it isn't an issue with the charger, I checked the charger's output voltage with a multi-meter. Seems good. It's a variable voltage charger (don't remember what happened to the original charger), and is set to the correct voltage. The tablet indicates 5V, but not what polarity. Regardless, switching the charger's polarity doesn't make a difference. Tablet still doesn't respond.

But maybe there's something else wrong with the charger; maybe it's not putting out enough power. So I was going to try another variable voltage charger which I had hooked up to my old but treasured clock-radio; it wasn't even plugged in for the longest time. But first I checked the voltage on this charger. It displays as 15V regardless of what setting the selector is switched to. Does that mean that *this* charger is bad?? Now I don't dare plug it back into my clock-radio.

Addendum
I hooked the tablet back up to the charger which shows the correct voltage, then pressed and held the power button, and the tablet started up fine. ::rolls eyes:: It even shows a full battery charge. All's well that ends well, except for my other charger.

flexible displays

Saturday, January 19th, 2013 01:18 am
darkoshi: (Default)
I came across this cool video a few weeks ago, but couldn't find the source. So I wasn't sure if it was real or fake (as a few comments suggested).



It seems these flexible OLED screens have been around for quite a while, at least in research labs.

More coolness:







More info and news on OLED displays: oled-info.com.

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